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OUR EXPERTISE IN ANSWER TO YOUR QUESTIONS

SKIN CHRONOBIOLOGY

Chronobiology is the science of biological rhythms. The skin has a “circadian” rhythm, i.e. taking place over approximately one day (24 h). The skin cells detect the differences in light and adapt to them to mobilise their mechanisms of skin defence, regeneration, etc.

Here is a summary of the current knowledge about the circadian variations of the skin barrier:  (see 8ème journées JP Marty of the SFC* December 2017).

  • Skin regeneration takes place between 23:00 and 04:00: a peak in cell division is observed between midnight and 01:00, whilst it is very low during the day and its minimum is between 12:00 and 13:00
  • The skin micro-circulation is also maximum between 23:00 and 04:00. This blood flow allows the removal of toxins and the uptake of nutrients to aid the process of good cell regeneration
  • During the night the trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) is also at its maximum, which corresponds to a decrease in the level of barrier function and increased permeability of the skin to external agents and/or active substances. During the day, the loss is minimal to limit dehydration and guarantee better protection of the skin against external elements (cold, wind, sun, pollutants, etc.)
  • Similarly to protect the skin against external agents, the production of sebum is maximal at the end of the morning and minimal at night.

Thus, as nature is well designed, the biological rhythm of the skin is adapted to our rhythm of life. It just needs help to optimise our skin’s beauty and health!

  • Give it vitamins and antioxidants in the evening for good cell regeneration overnight (Vitamins A, E and C, Coenzyme Q10, etc.)
  • Give it essential fatty acids** and ceramides to strengthen the skin barrier, which is properly reconstituted when you wake
  • Refill the epidermis with NMFs (natural moisturising factors) for optimum superficial hydration of the skin in the morning.

EPICOSM oleo-serums have been designed according to the skin’s needs and to meet all its basic expectations in the best way possible!

* SFC: Société Française de Cosmétologie [French Cosmetology Society]

** Essential fatty acids: fatty acids that the body cannot synthesise alone but which are absolutely essential for our bodies to function properly. They must be provided through the diet and cosmetics.

CAN I USE AN OIL ON MY FACE IF I HAVE MIXED OR OILY SKIN?

An oily skin is a hyper-seborrheic skin, i.e. it over-produces sebum in response to the aggressions it suffers, to alleviate its fragility and its tendency to dehydrate.

Applying a suitable oil after gentle cleansing and eliminating the excess sebum is an excellent solution. The skin will consider the oily treatment to be like sebum and will therefore regulate its production downwards. Progressively its production of sebum will regulate, reduce and balance itself and the skin will be less oily, well moisturised and protected.

A suitable oil means a choice of non-comedogenic vegetable oils and, if possible, sebo-regulators, such as jojoba, macadamia, sesame, or even hazelnut oils. Grapeseed oil is also supposed to be a sebo-regulator. Their fatty acid compositions are similar to those of human sebum. Oils with a dry texture, light and penetrating, which don’t leave an oily or shiny film on the skin.

WHY MACADAMIA OIL? FOR MORE INFO

With a very fluid composition close to that of human sebum, macadamia oil is perfectly absorbed by our skin and is non-comedogenic (does not block pores). This is why it is classified as a light “dry” oil: it does not shine on the skin due to its fast penetration.

It is one of the only vegetable oils rich in palmitoleic acid: the second most abundant fatty acid in sebum lipids. This fatty acid plays a part in the protection and regeneration of cell membranes. It is therefore regenerating and healing and protects the skin from cell ageing.

Also rich in oleic acid, it restores the deep hydration of the skin and the superficial hydrolipidic film, making it very effective for treating dry skins.

Human sebum has a protective antimicrobial role for the skin against external agents. It would seem that the most active antibacterial components of the sebum are oleic and palmitoleic acids, the main compounds in macadamia oil. Therefore this oil also has an antimicrobial action.

It is also totally suitable for mixed and oily skin, because it helps regulate sebum production by supplying the skin with the fatty acids it needs deep down and on the surface. The skin progressively reduces it sebum production, being filled by the intake of macadamia oil. The skin no longer shines; it regains a soft, more matt appearance.

It facilitates both the blood and lymphatic micro-circulations. In this way it helps fight rosacea, and it softens and relaxes the skin.

It low UV filter, or sun protection factor (SPF 4) is another advantage for well protected skin.

This oil from Australia is a benefit for all skin types!

It melts into the skin very discretely to give it back its youthful characteristics, with a finish that is neither oily nor shiny. We chose it as the major compound in our oleo-serums. It regenerates the skin, nourishes, protects, softens and moisturises it, all with an enveloping, sensual texture.

CAN I USE MY EPICOSM TREATMENT WITH ANOTHER TREATMENT?

Yes, EPICOSM oleo-serums can be used as day and night serums, alone or under your usual cream. No real incompatibility has been shown.


Nevertheless, our oleo-serums have been developed to be sufficient by themselves and to provide the skin with all it needs to be moisturised, protected and beautiful!

This is one of their characteristics, another being that they do not contain any preservatives, surfactants, allergens, etc. They are devoid of potentially harmful or controversial ingredients and so they are perfectly healthy, so it is not necessary to add another product, which would provide the skin with this type of ingredient.

In addition, if you have a mature skin and use the Eclat & Fermeté or Anti-taches & Eclat treatments, these contain Vitamin A and Vitamin C. If you have sensitive skin, adding an extra product containing Vitamin A could irritate you due to a total dose that is too high for your skin.

If, however, the action of your oleo-serum seems to you insufficient to moisturise and protect your skin properly, try to put on a little more of it in the morning. In fact, when your skin is exposed to external aggressions it often needs more oleo-serum to be correctly nourished and moisturised.

HOW LONG DOES A COSMETIC TAKE TO WORK?

It all depends what it is!

If it is to do with hydration it can happen fast: you will feel the benefit of your moisturising or anti-dehydration product in several days.

This is the case with our oleo-serums. The hydrolipidic film rebalances, the intercellular cement is renewed, and the stratum corneum regains its optimal protective role: your skin has renewed lipid uptake and the trans-epidermal water loss is reduced.

On the other hand, the “anti-ageing” actions take longer to produce a visible result.

In fact, on average it takes 28 days for the epidermis to renew itself (from 21 to 28 days for young skins and longer, up to 35 or 40 days, for mature skins).

This cycle corresponds to the renewal process for keratinocytes (epidermal cells), which move up from the basal layer of the epidermis, where they are born, to the stratum corneum, where they will be eliminated (desquamation) (1). Therefore waiting a minimum of 28 days is recommended to asses an epidermal effect properly, e.g. refined skin texture and a radiant complexion.

For actions on the dermis it will take longer. In fact, it requires deeper penetration of the active ingredients and action on the fibroblasts (cells making up the dermis) to restart the synthesis of GAGs and collagens, and to reboost the internal cells. So 6 to 8 weeks may be necessary to see an effect in terms of firmness and elasticity for example.

Similarly for lightening products it is wise to wait at least 2 months to assess the visible results, because a large number of cells and mechanisms are involved.

Furthermore, the efficacy of a product is directly linked to it being used properly every day: if you do not follow the brand’s recommendation, the product’s efficacy will be reduced.

You can also increase the efficacy of a cosmetic by combining it with an instrument or technique promoting skin penetration (cleansing brush, light peeling, US and LED appliances, etc.). In this case, we strongly recommend you use our oleo-serums, without which you will increasingly make not only active ingredients penetrate, but also preservatives, surfactants, allergens, etc.

Finally, the protective action due to the antioxidants is almost immediate and helps to delay intrinsic and extrinsic ageing of the skin. It isn’t visible, but it’s good for your skin!

So don’t be impatient, and don’t believe what some laboratories never hesitate to state: a cosmetic doesn’t make your skin younger in just a few days. Neither does it fill wrinkles: for that you need to look at injections! However, it limits ageing, it progressively returns firmness and elasticity to your skin, radiance to your epidermis and softness, a sensation of well-being.

Know more about the skin

WHEN AND HOW SHOULD I USE MY EPICOSM TREATMENT?

EPICOSM oleo-serums have been designed to provide the skin with everything it needs, morning and evening. So they should be used in the morning on clean, dry skin, before any make-up, in place of serums and/or day creams, and in the evening on skin with the make-up removed, and which is clean and dry.

Never skip the evening application, in fact the skin regenerates at night, in particular between 23:00 and 04:00 in the morning with a maximum peak for cell multiplication at 01:00. So whilst you are asleep your skin will draw what it needs from the oleo-serum to be in full health and beauty the next morning.

Make-up removal/skin cleansing:

Cleansing the skin properly is essential for its quality and health. To do this remove make-up or cleanse it with micellar water, an oil, or any other make-up remover morning and evening. Ideally then rinse it with clean water and finish by spraying it with thermal or spring water, which will make it possible to remove the residues of preservative, surfactants and other additives in the make-up remover as well as possible traces of heavy metals in running water.

Wipe well with a cotton pad or a clean, soft cloth.

Application of the oleo-serum:

On clean, dry skin (do not allow traces of residual water to enter the roll-on) apply the product over the entire face with the “fresh effect” ball in circular movements. The bottom of the bottle should be directed as vertically as possible from the roll-on ball to deliver the oleo-serum correctly.

Focus on the dry areas of your face.

Then massage with the fingers and palms of the hand, from the inside to the outside of the face, from bottom to top, to encourage lymphatic drainage, blood micro-circulation and to enable the product to penetrate properly.

If it seems to you that insufficient product was applied, perform another application with the roll-on and massage again.

After several days’ use, if your skin is tight during the day, it is because you have not used enough oleo-serum, given the dryness of your skin. Apply more of it, particularly in the morning, because during the day your skin is subject to external stresses and therefore needs more product to be well moisturised and protected.

If on the other hand your skin is shiny: you have used too much and have not rubbed it in enough to makes the oils and active ingredients penetrate. Massage well and adjust the dose downwards if necessary.

In this way you can adapt the dose applied to your skin’s needs.

When this is properly rebalanced and rehydrated, it is possible that you will need less product. You will therefore re-adapt the dose to be applied.

To be used morning and evening for good product efficacy and a beneficial effect on your skin.

DO EPICOSM PRODUCTS CONTAIN ENDOCRINE DISRUPTORS?

No, EPICOSM products do not contain ingredients suspected of being endocrine disruptors.

What is an endocrine disruptor?

“An endocrine disruptor (ED) is an exogenous substance or mixture that alters function(s) of the endocrine system and consequently causes adverse health effects in an intact organism, or its progeny, or (sub)populations.” WHO definition in 2002.

These are therefore synthetic molecules (very rarely natural in origin) which interfere with our hormone system.

Two types of ED have been identified by the WHO: proven EDs and potential EDs (many more!), both of which are likely to disrupt the endocrine system.

What makes EDs particularly risky is their very complex modes of action, which either mimic the action of hormones or interfere with the synthesis or breakdown of hormones or modify their receptors.

The cumulative effect of very small doses can be enough, all the more so because some may have more significant toxic effects at low doses than at high doses.

In cosmetics, amongst these endocrine disruptors there are

  • paraben or triclosan type preservatives
  • plasticisers (phthalates) sometimes present in synthetic perfumes
  • chemical sunscreens (benzophenone, ethylhexyl methoxicinnamate)
  • some silicones (cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone)
  • alkylphenols used as emulsifiers

During the design of our oleo-serums, we particularly made sure that no ingredients proven to be or suspected of being an EP are present, including in the fragrances chosen, all of which are of natural origin.

WHY AREN’T THERE ESSENTIAL OILS IN EPICOSM OLEO-SERUMS?

Essential oils are a concentrate of plant active substances. They are therefore powerful and some of the active ingredients are potentially toxic in high doses. For this reason it is always recommended that they are used diluted, and not used on young children or pregnant women.

In contact with the skin, incorrect use may cause contact dermatitis linked to intolerance to some of their components. Varying degrees of irritation are described as well as skin allergies, particularly of course in people with an allergic disposition.

Mixtures of essential oils are potentially even more risky, because they combine several active molecules and therefore increase the risk of allergy or irritant reaction.

Despite their many virtues, especially “anti-ageing” the risks therefore remain significant and it is always necessary to pre-test a product containing one or more essential oils on your skin.

For all these reasons, and in order to guarantee the best possible tolerance to our products, we have decided not to use essential oils.


However, if you use an essential oil that suits you particularly well you can, without any problem, add several drops of it to your oleo-serum, with which it will be completely miscible and compatible. Then shake the bottle well and make sure not to overdose; several drops are enough in a bottle (approximately 10 to 15 drops).

Discover our range of regenerative oleo-serums